Wildlife Rescue & Rehabilitation

As a federally licensed wildlife rehabilitation and education facility, the Denison Pequotsepos Nature Center regularly takes in, rehabilitates and cares for native creatures. Our goal is to release healthy animals back into areas of good habitat. Some animals cannot be released due to the nature of their injuries. The animals that we keep become part of our education programs to help further our mission of nurturing an appreciation of the environment.

The Nature Center specializes in birds of prey and songbirds. If our limited space and capabilities permit, we sometimes also take in small mammals. If we cannot accept an animal, we will always try to connect you with another certified rehabilitator in our network.

We work closely with the Stonington Animal Control Officer, but because our facilities are located in a public building, we cannot accept rabies vector species (raccoon, skunk, fox, woodchuck). To find a facility that can assist with these species, visit the Connecticut DEEP wildlife rehabilitation site.

FIND AN INJURED ANIMAL?

The Nature Center accepts animal rescue calls at 860-980-3731.
Please be sure to leave a message and we will respond as soon as possible.
Animal rescue intake is arranged by appointment only.

Frequently Asked Questions About Wildlife

If you don’t find the answer to your wildlife question, call us at (860-536-1216).

Birds

Yes. Most birds have a poorly developed sense of smell and will continue to care for their young, even if humans have handled them.

Try to find the nest and put the bird back in it. The bird is helpless without the mother and has a low chance of survival if removed. If you cannot find the nest, make one out of a berry basket or small container and securely place it in a tree, shrub or other nearby location. The parents will find the nestling when it chirps for food.

This bird is a fledgling; it has just left the nest and will spend the next 24-72 hours learning how to fly, find food and develop other survival skills. The parents are most likely watching from nearby, and will continue to care for it. Keep pets inside, and move the baby bird to cover beneath a nearby shrub. The parents will not return while you are around, so leave the area and observe from afar.

The bird sees its reflection in the glass, and thinks it’s a rival bird. Male birds typically chase other males out of their territories during mating season. Try to break the reflection by putting something on or near the glass on the outside of the window. Tack sheer fabric or fly some balloons or strings of yarn that will flutter in the wind.

Hummingbirds will usually return to southeastern Connecticut around April 15, but you can put the feeder up as early as April first to feed early arrivals. Leave the feeder up until the end of September or as long as hummingbirds still come to it. Hummingbirds flying south rely on temperature, day length and other environmental cues to start migration. Your feeder may help them survive an early cold snap, but will not keep them from making their southward journey. Be sure to clean it regularly and replace with fresh nectar, hummingbirds can develop cankers from bacteria in the feeders, which can be fatal to them.

If your hummingbirds empty the feeder with greater frequency, clean it every time it's empty. Otherwise, once a week or slightly more frequently in hot weather. Cleaning with hot tap water works fine, or a weak vinegar solution, well rinsed. Cleaning brushes are helpful to prevent mold from growing in parts of the feeder.

Mix four parts water with one part sugar. Heat just to a boil and remove. Do not add red food coloring. Let the solution cool before filling the feeder. Change the solution often, especially during warm weather.

It's not necessary to feed them in summer since birds have enough natural food in the wild, but it doesn't harm them, and is a good way to attract birds to your yard. Resident seed-eating birds may bring their families to your feeder. Wild birds do welcome water during times of drought.

Yes, but many species seem to prefer peanut butter when mixed with seed, oats, bread crumbs, dried fruit, nuts or berries.

Offer them mealworms, plain fruit or suet mixed with fruit. Another option is to get beef suet from the meat counter at the grocery store and use a grater to shred it into “worms” for the birds.

English sparrows commonly intrude upon bluebird boxes. They are serious competitors and sometimes predators of bluebirds. If there is an English sparrow nesting in your bluebird house, remove the nest and eggs to discourage it from returning. They are persistent, so you may have to do this several times. Because this sparrow is an introduced species, it is legal to remove the nest and eggs. It is illegal to remove the eggs of house wrens, chickadees or tree swallows. These native birds also use bluebird boxes. Be sure to locate your nest box away from thickets (preferred by house wrens) and install extra boxes in a variety of locations.

If it doesn’t interfere with the operation of the vent, leave the nest there until the babies fledge. If the nest does interfere with the operation of the vent, remove it and place the nest in a tree or shrub near the house where the parents will find it.

Turn off all the lights, and open up the windows and doors. If it is already dark out, leave the windows open until dawn, when the bird may once again try to head for the light.

No. Large numbers of geese and swans can pose a nuisance on small ponds and coves, and feeding them may encourage more aggressive behavior and a dependence on us for food.

Squirrels

Place the bird feeder at least 10 feet from any tree or shrub from which the squirrel can jump. Or hang a dome-shaped baffle to your hanging feeder or cylinder-shaped baffle to attach to a pole feeder.

Open the flue, the fireplace doors, and an outside door of your house. Put some cracked corn in the fireplace. Hopefully the squirrel will come for the corn, then feel the fresh air coming from your open door and head for it. Once the squirrel is out, put a cap on the chimney.

Gray squirrels will leave during the day to forage for food. Watch for the squirrel to leave, then block off its entry points. Flying squirrels are nocturnal. Wait for the flying squirrel to leave in the evening to forage for food, then block off any entry points. If either of these have babies, you must wait until the babies are old enough to leave and forage on their own before blocking off access. If these strategies don’t work, you can live trap them, and re-release the squirrels a good distance from your home. Removing large, overhanging trees or branches will help discourage squirrels from using your attic as a nest site.

Baby Animals

Baby bunnies have a very low survival rate when removed from the nest. It is likely the mother is nearby, so cover the nest with vegetation and leave the bunnies in place. After covering the nest back up, place small twigs in a tic-tac-toe pattern on top and check in the morning to see that it's been disturbed. If it's still intact the mother has not been back and you should contact an animal rehabber.

 

If the baby is fully furred and alert, it may have recently left the nest as it becomes increasingly independent and learns to forage on its own, and you don't need to interfere. If the eyes are closed, try to find the nest and return the bunny or squirrel into the nest. If you have witnessed a cat or other predator taking the baby from the nest, contact a wildlife rehabber, a cat bite can be dangerous and usually requires antibiotics before the animal can be released.

Skunks, Foxes & Raccoon

A skunk is a rabies vector species, which means it has the potential to carry and transmit rabies, so do not attempt to trap or capture it. Put moth balls under the porch or spray ammonia around the entry hole. The skunk may not like the smell and move elsewhere. Once it has relocated, close off the space with lattice or another type of barrier.

Foxes, skunks and raccoon, which usually come out in the evening, are rabies vector species, which means they can potentially carry and transmit rabies. If you should see one of these animals exhibiting any one of the following behaviors, leave it alone and call your local animal control officer or rehabilitator:

  • Animal is wandering around shaking its head and growling
  • Animal is aggressive, shows no fear and charges you for no apparent reason
  • Animal is curled up and sleeping in an open area during daylight.

These are potential symptoms of the rabies virus. It is illegal to trap or remove these animals from the property alive.

Coyotes

Coyotes prefer carrion and small animals like rabbits, squirrels and mice. A hungry coyote that can’t find food will take what it can, so we suggest you keep your small pets inside, especially at night.

Woodchucks

To discourage woodchucks from taking up residence in your yard, or to encourage burrow abandonment, remove undergrowth and brush from around houses or buildings that they have burrowed under.

Deer

There are common household remedies that sometimes work. Hang mothballs, strong soap or human hair in nylon stockings on the plants, or place chicken wire on the ground around the plants. Commercial deer repellents are the most effective when used consistently.

Bears, Moose and Bobcats

Connecticut’s state Department of Environmental Protection reports that bear sightings in Connecticut are on the rise. While the majority of these sightings are in the northern and northwestern part of the state, southeastern Connecticut has the largest tract of forest with potentially suitable habitat for bears. Bear sightings in eastern Connecticut are becoming more frequent.

There have not been recent reports of moose in southeastern Connecticut. But moose love wetlands, so it is possible in the future there could be sightings of moose in our area. Current data indicates there is one breeding pair of moose in the state.

Bobcats are found throughout Connecticut. They are very shy creatures, and not often seen by people. However, the Nature Center still receives reports of bobcats in our area.

Fishers

Fishers are a relatively new arrival to southeast Connecticut. According the CT DEEP, the local population radiated into this area from New Hampshire, Massachusetts and Rhode Island. Females average about six or seven pounds and have a home range about three square miles. Males can get up to about 17 pounds and have a home range around nine square miles. They are members of the weasel family and have retractable claws so they are excellent climbers. Their diet consists of squirrels, rabbits, mice, voles, carrion, fruits,  porcupines, birds, and frogs. In winter or if their habitat is under pressure and hunting is limited they may also prey on small domestic animals.

Turtles

No. Releasing non-native species and captive-bred turtles can be harmful to the environment because of the likelihood of spreading disease, and the possibility of introducing a potential pest or invasive species into a natural ecosystem.

Many turtles, including painted turtles and snapping turtles, leave the water and move to land to lay their eggs. They are not lost. You can move the turtle across the road in the direction it is heading. If the turtle is a large snapper, put both hands on the sides of its shell, towards the rear, keeping your fingers away from its head.

No. It's best to leave turtles where you find them. They may die trying to get back home if relocated.

Snakes

The Northern Copperhead is the only venomous snake you are likely to encounter in southeastern Connecticut. It favors hilly, low-lying areas, including rocky hillsides and bushy ridges. People often confuse the copperhead with the non-venomous Eastern Milk Snake. The only other venomous snake found in Connecticut is the Timber Rattlesnake, which is often confused with the harmless Eastern Hognose. The Timber Rattlesnake is not found in southeastern Connecticut.